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Landslide and "alive" rocks did not hinder expedition to K2 from getting to the first camp

10 august 2011, 10:47
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Tents of the second camp. Photo courtesy of Maksut Zhumayev
Tents of the second camp. Photo courtesy of Maksut Zhumayev
Participants of the international expedition to K2 went down from the second to the first camp despite of a landslide threat and “alive” rocks. “We are planning to re-pack here and move to the base camp for some rest. We will rest for at least three full days, it will all depend on the weather. We will start moving as soon as we have good weather for climbing to the top,” Kazakhstan alpinist Maksut Zhumayev told Tengrinews.kz.

According to Zhumayev, the expedition passed all the dangerous parts of the route today. “We were worried, but our concerns turned out to be unnecessary, as the storm that we saw two days ago turned out to be very localized. Bad weather mainly hit the areas above the second camp. There was a high landslide threat, but we finished our work, despite of the weather, fulfilling the task of the forth advancement 100 percent,” Zhumayev said.

Kazakhstan alpinist also said that the conditions below the second camp were completely different from those above. Participants of the expedition thought that there will also be a landslide threat, but there turned out to be much less snow. “Moreover, snow slid revealing ice, our ropes froze and we had to get them out of ice. There was less snow and ice in the corridor above the first camp and we found more of so called “alive” rocks that move and can even fall down and damage alpinists. Today we were going down and a piece of ice broke off and got into Gerlinda’s face; she was brave and didn’t cry, even though it hurt a lot. Unfortunately, such things happen in the mountains, that’s why we always work in helmets and try to be as careful as possible,” Zhumayev added.

Kazakhstan sportsmen Maksut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov congratulated their friend Dmitry Forkin on his birthday: “Today is our friend's birthday and we would like to pass our greetings and best wishes.”

Zhumayev also told about plans on climbing to the top of K2. “Of course, we talked about the possibility of climbing the top during our fourth ascent, but we were not ready in terms of natural, climate and physiological conditions. That’s why everything went just as we planned: we set the forth camp and found out the situation inside the Japanese Corridor. It is good that we took no such bonus-decision as to quickly climb to the top from the summit camp and then go back, as the weather would not be suitable for climbing today or tomorrow,” Zhumayev added.

The international expedition to K2 includes Maksut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov from Kazakhstan, Gerlinda Kaltenbrunner from Austria, Ralf Dujmovits from Germany, Darek Zaluski from Poland and Tommy Heinrich from Argentina.

Chogori is located in the Karakorum mountain system in Kashmir province at the territory of Pakistan. Its height is 8,611 meters.

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