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International expedition preparing for third advancement to K2

18 july 2011, 19:56
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Maksut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov at the foot of K2. Photo ©M.Zhumayev
Maksut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov at the foot of K2. Photo ©M.Zhumayev
Maksut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov resting. ©National Geografic/Darec Zaluski
Maksut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov resting. ©National Geografic/Darec Zaluski
Gerlinda and Maksut ascending the mount. ©National Geografic/Darec Zaluski
Gerlinda and Maksut ascending the mount. ©National Geografic/Darec Zaluski
Participants of the international expedition to K2 are preparing for the third trip to Chogori mount to set a camp at the height of 7,100-7,400 meters, Kazakhstan alpinist Maksut Zhumayev told Tengrinews.kz.

“For the first time during our expedition there was a good weather on the day when we rest. Yesterday Vassiliy Pivtsov and I went down to Chinese base camp for operational necessity. I damaged my boots in the last trip and had to replace them. We can say that yesterday was a very successful day, as we spent a night at 3,800 meters. We had oxygen baths and restoring our energy here,” Zhumayev said.

According to Kazakhstan alpinist, all participants are currently in a good shape and emotional condition: “We feel very well. And the weather is nice. The forecasts say that there will be no snow in the next 5-6 days. I hope it will allow us to get from the second to the third camp and set it at 7,100-7,400 meters, depending on where we find flat areas for camps. We also hope that the route did not get worse at Chogori, and even become better. All this makes us optimistic.”

Zhumayev also told about what makes Kazakhstan alpinists stronger than others. “We never use additional oxygen equipment. We follow the Fair Play rules. If you ascend a mount, you have to do it in the existing conditions. Certainly, it is very difficult to do it without oxygen. Compared to the content of oxygen in Almaty air, we currently have less than two thirds of it in our base camp. There is even less oxygen at 8,000 meters. One step requires 2-3 deep breaths up there. We train all the time, make our bodies get used to the conditions and I'm sure that such training will help us in the final ascent to the top of Chogori,” Kazakhstan sportsman added.

The third advancement to K2 is scheduled for tomorrow, July 19. It will take three to five days. Chogori is located in Karakorum mountain system in Kashmir province at the territory of Pakistan. Its height is 8,611 meters.

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